Lunch Break Diaries

Generally I don’t shoot much from land or in the middle of the day… especially not both at the same time, yuck! But last week when I got a text from Wispy, who was just about to take his new Bob McTavish 80’s thruster for a spin, I felt so in tune with the elements that I didn’t worry about where I was shooting from or what time it was.

I’d been on a roll for days. You know, the feeling when you’re always in the right place at the right time, always meeting the right people, everything you touch turns to gold and unfolds magically right in front you… Yeah that! It’s what most people, including myself, don’t experience often enough. It comes from a place of no resistance, when you’re thoughts and feelings are perfectly in sync with who you really are.

I was running late, or was I? The surf was bad, or was it? Wispy was ripping, that he was indeed. 80’s surfboard design meets 21st century surfing. I positioned myself here and there, pressed a few buttons on my camera and the session was over. Nicely done… just like that.

The next morning things changed. I changed. In my head, not listening, not in sync. I found myself in a spot where I didn’t want to be, doing what I didn’t want to do. Thoughts and actions unaligned with the voice within. Where mental pain leads the way, physical pain isn’t too far off. ┬áIn my case; an injured spine, x-rays and rehab… just like that.








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