After recovering from a severe sinusitis I was dying to get back in the water. I “only” spent 4 days at the Tweed Hospital and two weeks in bed, but to me it felt like half a year. As I was still a bit shaky on my legs I didn’t want to push my luck too hard and decided to take my camera out for a quick swim at The Wreck. The surf was small but autumn delivered a beautiful golden sunset. One of the shots from that afternoon can be purchased as a framed print at Ho’okupu in town. See below… “Wreck Sunset Surfers”.
For the first time in ages Main Beach was pumping. Yew. There were plenty of barrels to be had. Johnny got a couple of nice ones and Jeff made photo of the day on Magicseaweed going over the falls while putting on a show.
A couple of weeks later Hui delivered again! One of the gnarliest days I have ever witnessed around here. IT WAS ON! Six to eight foot, clean, open, hollow barrels rolled in nicely stacked behind each other. The boys were on it and scored some sick barrels.
Dan bravely paddled out at one of the more remote and marine life filled spots by himself. It looked hectic. He took off on a few bombs while I was snapping away in the cliffs waving and hooting, giving him some moral support.