Teaming up with a surfer you have never shot before to create a bunch of new images for your portfolio is extremely exciting! Undertaking a mission like this at the start of spring has proofed to be rather challenging. While weather and water are getting more inviting, the waves are at an all-year low. Chasing big barrels at home; impossible. The magical light however, almost a constant.
Byron Bay’s own Sam Johnson, one of keenest surfers around, and myself have been dawn patrolling the shire for the last 3 months. The amount of failed outings without even entering the water outweighing success stories. So many early mornings, so many times it was “back to bed” for us. Onshore. Too small. Wrong swell direction. Wrong spot… and so on.
But, persistence always pays off; and looking back it seems we made the most of spring. Enjoy.